- Written by Steve Rosenberg
- Russia Editor, Borovsk
As I walked through the streets of Borovsk, I noticed two things about this city 100 kilometers (60 miles) from Moscow.
First, there is little sign that a presidential election will be held this weekend.
There are hardly any election banners or billboards to be seen, and no political leaflets appear to be being handed out.
Not surprising. The lack of preparations for the election reflects the absence of drama surrounding the on-stage events that gave President Vladimir Putin a fifth term in the Kremlin.
Another thing you can't help but notice in Borovsk is the street art. It's everywhere.
Many of them were created by street artist Vladimir Ovchinnikov. His works can be seen on walls and buildings all over the city.
Most of his paintings are uncontroversial. Like a giant globe that tells the history of the city. Or an image of a famous soccer player.
But increasingly, when Vladimir paints a picture of today's Russia, it is very dark.
“I call this the pinnacle of ambition,” the 86-year-old artist told me. A painting he shows me at his home depicts a man in a martial arts uniform walking a tightrope over a pile of human skulls.
“The ambitions of those in power lead to these outcomes.”
Even more dramatic is the photo of two meat grinders mincing humans. One of them is labeled 1937 (year of Stalin's Great Terror). Another special military operation (Russia's war in Ukraine).
“We have not learned any lessons,” Vladimir concluded.
The artist was fined for “discrediting” the Russian military after graffitiing a similar meat grinder on a wall. Street art in Ukraine depicting a missile falling on a girl dressed in blue and yellow had a similar result.
Vladimir uses his art not only to comment on the present, but also to shed light on Russia's dark past: the oppression of the Stalin era. His graffiti criticizing the war in Ukraine did not go down well with the authorities. It will be filled in immediately.
“My paintings make people think: Are we right or wrong in this conflict?” Vladimir tells me. “I believe this is a crime against the territorial integrity of a neighboring country. If we remain silent, we will condone it.”
“Many remain silent for fear of repression, losing their jobs, or being criticized by others.”
After opposition leader Alexei Navalny's death in prison, Vladimir painted Navalny's portrait at a local monument honoring victims of political repression.
“That very day someone scraped it off,” Vladimir told me. “But I had sketched it out on a piece of cardboard at home, so I brought it later and placed it by the monument.”
How does Vladimir see Russia's future?
“Some are predicting further repression, and we are moving towards totalitarianism and outright dictatorship,” he says.
president's photo
Vladimir Ovchinnikov says he doesn't watch TV.
If he does, he will see a very different picture of Russia on state television.
President Vladimir Putin's version.
No piles of human skulls. No meat grinder. There was no mention of Alexei Navalny.
This is not a Russia that is aggressive abroad and repressive at home. It is a Russia with a glorious past and an equally bright future. Russia of heroes and patriots rallying around the national flag to protect the Motherland from external aggression.
And it is Russia that loves its current leader.
A few days ago, Russian Channel 1's evening news bulletin showed enthusiastic fans of President Putin greeting him like pop stars.
“Careful,” one woman yelled before kissing him.
“Long life!” one man shouted.
If you relied solely on Channel 1 for your news, you would probably conclude that President Vladimir Putin is likely to win the presidential election in a landslide.
But as with painting, context is important.
And context is important here.
The Kremlin not only controls Russian television, but also the entire political system, including elections.
President Putin is seeking a fifth term in office but faces no serious challenges. His loudest critics are either in exile or imprisoned in their homes. Mr. Navalny, his fiercest opponent, has died.
But the Kremlin likes to boast that Russia has the “best democracy” in the world. This means that in addition to Putin, there will be three officially recognized challengers from Russia's Kremlin-aligned parliament on the ballot.
I caught up with one of them recently. It was a strange experience.
“Why do you think you could be a better president than Putin?'' asked Communist Party candidate Nikolai Kharitonov.
Kharitonov replied: “It's not for me to say.” “That wouldn't be right.”
“But do you think your manifesto is better than Putin's?” he continued.
“That's for the voters to decide.”
“It doesn't matter what I think. It's up to the voters.”
Instead of speaking out himself, Kharitonov praised the incumbent.
“Today, President Vladimir Putin is trying to solve many of the problems of the 1990s, when Yeltsin dragged Russia into wild capitalism,” Kharitonov said. “He is trying to unite the country for victory in all areas, and it will happen!”
I feel like Nikolai Kharitonov's heart is not in this race.
One politician who unsuccessfully tried to participate in the vote was anti-war politician Boris Nadezhdin.
“It is absolutely impossible to say that our presidential elections were fair and free,” Nadejdin tells me. He claims he was banned from running because his anti-war message became too popular.
“According to opinion polls, about 30-35% of Russians want to vote for a candidate like me who speaks about peace. This is an absolutely impossible result for our government.”
photos on the street
Back in Borovsk, we enjoy the view from the bridge over the Protva River.
The town itself looks like a painting from here. You can imagine the Russian paintings hanging in the Hermitage. There is a beautiful church on top of the hill, and below it are quaint houses covered in snow. People in warm coats walk carefully on the icy road.
When I head into town, I tread carefully to gauge the atmosphere. What do people think about the war, the election, and the president on the streets of Borovsk?
“No matter how you vote, everything is predetermined,” a young woman named Svetlana told me. She said, “I don't see any point in participating.''
But many people here, especially older Russians, tell me they will vote. When you talk to people, it becomes clear that the Russia you see on TV has many supporters.
“I hope Vladimir Putin wins the election and the war ends,” Lyudmila told me. “So many young people were killed. When peace comes, many countries will finally understand that Russia is invincible.”
“Why do you want Putin to win?” I ask. “After all, he's the guy who started special military operations.”
“There are many opinions,” Lyudmila admits. “Some say this war should never have started. Some say he was right. I'm not going to criticize him now. We don't know everything politically. isn't it.”
“It's been nearly a quarter of a century since Mr. Putin came to power,'' I point out. “In a country of 145 million people, who else could do his job?”
“Yes, we have many talented leaders who can run the country in an emergency,” Lyudmila replied.
Mr. Nikolay also plans to vote for the current president, and seems unfazed by President Putin's 25-year rule.
“So what? We had a tsar who ruled for a long time,” says Nikolai. “There were good tsars and there were bad tsars. There were Stalins and Brezhnevs. You can change leaders, but it makes little difference to our lives.”